Hartsyard, Newtown

I'll admit it. It was the fried chicken that brought me here - a promise of cold-smoked fried chicken with biscuits and gravy that had me grinning with glee in anticipation.

In the midst of a hitherto unseen cyclone of Sydney restaurant closures, it's heartwarming to see so much buzz around Hartsyard, open for less than a week and already fully booked on a Friday night. There's no celebrity or